Freeport is located on the island of Grand Bahama and, unlike its counterpart Nassau on the island of Providence, is as laid back as they come. We go to our timeshare, Ocean Reef Resort and Yacht Club, and hostess Esther greets us with a hug, a Bahama Mama, a local tropical drink swimming in rum, and a heart-felt "Welcome home!"
Ocean Reef is reflective of the rest of the island, not a sparkling jaw-dropping five-star accommodation, but a nice, homey atmosphere with two pools, a jacuzzi that has worked once out of the three times we've been there and major ongoing remodeling that seems to happen in fits and starts. There's an on-site restaurant that was closed for remodeling when we were there last year, but Esther at pool #2 served up some fat homemade cheeseburgers and real potato french fries. There are also workout facilities, tennis courts, and slips for visiting sailors from the mainland 50 miles to the north. A row of colorful three bedroom townhouses line the lagoon. The main building holds one and two bedroom apartments with spacious balconies/patios and some indoor jacuzzi tubs. Kitchens in each unit have all or most of the amenities a visitor is used to at home, and TVs in the living room and every bedroom are hooked up to satellite. DVD players, DVDs, and games are available in the office and a room on the second floor houses books and a desktop computer for use by guests. Sometimes the power goes out when a sudden rainstorm moves in, but the cooler air drops the temperature from a high of about 80 degrees Farenheit to a refreshing 65 to 70. The rain and far off thunder also provides a soothing respite from the sameness of blindingly bright sunny days.
Ocean Reef plays host to on-site diving instructors, a married couple who makes a trip out to the reefs and other surrounding dive points that include up-close encounters with sharks and the myriad sea creatures that inhabit the Caribbean. I tried diving for the very first (and only) time with them and was rescued immediately by an attentive deck hand when I ripped off my mask in a panic. My wife makes the trip with them every time and has nothing but nice things to say. Some prefer a more corporate, less mom-and-pop diving experience. Port Lucaya offers UNEXCO (Underwater Explorers Society) excursions with bigger diving parties.
We meet nice folks from Michigan, Minnesota and Canada mostly, snowbirds who come down in early October in order to hold off winter for a little bit longer.
We go for the Conch Festival in McLean's Town on Discovery Day. That's what they call Columbus Day in the Bahamas. We eat conch fritters, conch salad, conch chowder and all other things conch. Tourists are encouraged to participate in the conch cracking contest and they pretty much make a mess. Seasoned veterans tap the shell with the hammer/hatchet-type tool and wrench the mollusk or sea snail from its home in seconds. With all the Bahama Mamas and Bush Crack beer you can drink, and dancing in the heat and humidity to the local rake-and-scrape music, it's a good way to start a vacation.
On our first visit, I decided the country's motto should be, "Separate Them from Their Money." It's not entirely the fault of the citizens that everything is so expensive. I have come to realize that life on any island - whether it's Manhattan, Honolulu, Sydney, or Freeport - is going to cost more than the mainland because everything is shipped in. But a large box of Raisin Bran for $12? FRUGAL TOURIST TIP: Pack your suitcase with non-perishables and frozen steaks and chops smothered in ice packs. They'll keep till you get there.
There is a wide variety of activities to choose from. Any of the resorts will be happy to book visitors for an eco tour, kayaking to Peterson's Cay aka Gilligan's Island, deep sea fishing, shopping excursions to Port Lucaya, gambling in the casino, snorkeling, or scuba diving. Folks are friendly everywhere and so are the "wild" raccoons at Gold Rock Beach. There are caves, mangrove swamps and blowholes to explore. Everywhere one looks, turquoise water and white sand beaches stretch as far as the eye can see. Many of the beaches and coves are deserted and available for a swim, but some of the more exclusive resorts shoo away beachgoers who aren't staying there.
You won't find any locals in the casino; they're excluded by law from blowing their paychecks on gambling.
Wednesdays are Fish Fry nights, an event surely invented to entice tourists to spend more money on the fresh catch of the day. There's a cluster of restaurants on Smith's Point Beach where the fare includes red snapper, flounder, the local lobster and the ubiquitous conch. After dinner there's drinking and dancing to local music and hip hop where tourists and locals mingle. A walk on the beach in the moonlight can be very romantic.
At least one night during the visit, we'll go to Pier One, a restaurant located near the docks where all the cruise ships, tankers and supply ships drop anchor. The food is amazing and the sharks are fed off the balcony every hour to the delight and awe of tourists.
A great place for lunch is Zorba's Greek cuisine in Port Lucaya. My wife swears their conch chowder is the best on the island. If a tourist gets homesick for fast food, there's always KFC, Dominos and Burger King, among others.
There is a rumor that prices at the shops rise when the cruise ships are in port, but I have never noticed it firsthand. There may be less bargaining wiggle room, but vendors with their "darlin's" and "pretty ladies," make every transaction a warm experience. Many of the items are made locally though. as with any tourist spot, some are invariably made in Thailand or China.
After a week on the island (or several islands if you fancy a ferry ride), visitors turn wistful. It's back to work, back to reality and the hustle and bustle of life back home (and sometimes an early blizzard). But the Bahamas have worked their magic: the kinks in your neck and back have melted away, your skin has a golden brown hue, and your mind is uncluttered. You're recharged and ready for what awaits back home.
